Milan hides its greatest assets, they live behind walls, through courtyards, up a flight of stairs and this guide will take you to them. Away from the towering Duomo and Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II with its rollcall of glamorous global brands are backstreet trattorias, a botanical garden and specialist shops of all stripes. Walk a little further for a Futurist cocktail bar, second-hand bookshops, house museums and extraordinary private art collections. Our guide takes in all this, leading you from Fondazione Prada to a humble osteria in just a few paces. Its a survey of Milans glamour and its grit in 39 handpicked selections.